Batteries – The life of your vehicle.

As the weather took a turn to the colder side, we have been replacing many batteries every week.  We have been using INTERSTATE Batteries for 30 years here at the shop with great success.  Most batteries are warranteed for approx 5 years, and Interstate seems to be the only battery we see actually lasting that long.

If you dont want to have a problem this winter, stop by and let us check your battery.  We have been finding most batteries to be weak and bellow marginal standards.  If you don’t want to get stuck these batteries should get replaced before its too late.  ANy corossion around ther terminals should also be cleaned and protected.

If you happen to come out one morning and your battery is dead, use these rules as a guide before jump starting your car.  (Copied from EHow.com)  Make sure your key is off and all accessories are turned off:

  • 1

    Pull the car you are using to jump the dead battery in front of the car with the dead battery. The vehicles need to be close enough for the jumper cables to reach, but do not let any parts of the cars touch each other. Turn off the engine of the jumper car.

  • 2

    Lay out the jumper cables on the ground between both cars. Keep the red and black ends of each end of the cables from touching each other.

  • 3
     
    Clip the red or positive end of the jumper cables closest to the dead battery to the positive terminal on the dead battery, firmly. The terminal is marked with a plus (+) sign or it has red around it. Wiggle it a little bit to be sure the connection is good.
     
  • 4

    Attach the red connection on the other end of the cables to the positive terminal on the jumper car’s battery. Make sure the connection is firm with a little wiggle there too.

  • 5

    Clamp the black side of the jumper cable to the negative terminal on the battery on the jumper car following the same procedure as Step 4. The negative terminal is surrounded by black or is marked by a minus (-) sign.

  • 6

    Find a space of unpainted metal in the engine of the car with the dead battery like a bolt or the accessory bracket on the alternator. Clamp the remaining black cable end to it. Make sure the cable will not interfere with any belts or moving parts once the engine is running again. Attaching this negative end to a ground rather than the battery keeps the risk of a hydrogen explosion near the battery low.

  • 7

    Turn the ignition in the jumper car on and allow it to charge the dead battery. Idle it for five minutes and then increase the charge running through the cables by pushing on the accelerator so the RPMs increase by about 1500 for 10 minutes.

  • 8

    Crank the ignition in the car with the dead battery so it turns over and catches. This ensures the alternator in the car with the dead battery charges the battery the rest of the way.

  • 9

    Remove the jumper cable ends in the reverse order from how you applied them: black from the engine with the dead battery, black from the jumper car, red from the jumper car and red from the car with the dead battery. Keep the ends from touching each other to reduce the risk of electrical shock.

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Land Rover Madness!

The shop is full with LAND ROVERS! We may not have a baker’s dozen, but we sure have a dozen Land Rovers in the shop. Everything from a Series Forward Control, Disco I & II, P38 Range Rovers, LR3’s, and new style Range Rovers. We also have an ’89 Classic Range Rover coming in this weekend. However, The newer and classic Jags are still outnumbering the Rovers! We are doing everything from full power train overhauls, timing chain upgrades, to the simple stuff like oil changes and services. With all this work maybe I’ll shed some of the extra weight I gained during the holidays…

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Snow? Use your Land Rover Terrain Response!

We are supposed to be getting anywhere between 2-6″ of cold wet snow tomorrow morning. If you have a LAND ROVER LR3 or newer RANGE ROVER, turn your “Terrain Response” dial on your center console to the “mud snow gravel” setting. This will optimize your Land Rover’s onboard systems to provide you with the safest performance on these snow covered roads. Remember, just because you have the best4x4xfar you need to keep control and drive safely for the road conditions. Stay Safe!

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You can now Subscribe to our blog!

On the right side or bottom of your screen, there is a little widget that will allow you to subscribe to our blog.  After subscribing, you will be able to control how and when you receive notifications for our latest news and postings.  Stay up to date with what is happening at Authorized Imported Cars and get the latest news about Jaguar and Land Rover.  I think a subscription to our blog would make a GREAT Christmas Present!  HAHA!

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Holiday Hours

Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays to all!!! So that we may spend a little extra time with our families, we will be closed from Saturday December 22 thru Wednesday December 26. We will reopen on Thursday the 27th at 8am. If you need to reach us for any reason call the shop at 908-788-1982. All calls will be answered or returned.

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One Stop Import & Foreign Car Shop

Just a reminder… Authorized Imported Cars is a complete imported and foreign car repair and service shop. We do it all. We are also a fully trained and certified Autologic Diagnostic Center. We have the proper tools and equipment to perform any repair on BMW, MINI COOPER, MERCEDES, VW, VOLVO and many others as well as our specialty – JAGUAR & LAND ROVER. We have spent countless hours obtaining the proper training and knowledge, along with the proper specialty diagnostic equipment and tools, to be able to provide the best care for your vehicle. Thank you for trusting us with all of your automotive needs.

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The problem with GAS…in a classic car.

A long time customer just brought in his 1964 Daimler Majestic Major due to poor performance, stalling, and fuel leaking from the carburettors.  Believe it or not, this “old timer” is his daily driver for running errands around town.  The car has always been very reliable, but became hard to start and keep running after our customer decided to visit family in Florida during Thanksgiving.  The car sat idle for two weeks and upon his return the problems began…as well as a heavy fuel smell in the garage.

It was obvious the car was running very lean and starving for fuel.  We removed the carbs for inspection/overhaul and found severe corossion and damage (see pic).  The use of ethanol in todays gasoline is causing many problems with our classic car fuel systems.  The ethanol causes moisture and corossion problems.  The alloy carburettor bodies were pitted, the brass floats were full of fuel due to pinholes from corossion, and the rubber diaphrams brittle and rotted. 

A good cleaning, an updated carburettor kit with new style seals compatible with todays fuel, and a bit of hard work and we had these carbs back on the car.  Not only did they look like new, the car ran better than ever.  However, the story can’t end here!  All classic car owners should be using a fuel additive to protect their precious fuel system.  These additives are available at your local auto supply store or you can call us and we can help 908-788-1982.  You want an additive that will stabilize your fuel and combat the problems with Ethanol.  Remember, two weeks idle is enough to cause a problem.  We had several older Jaguar, Triumph, and MG’s towed in during the summer.  They had been sitting for a few weeks and their carb floats had stuck, sunk or corodded. 

This is something to think about seriously…

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A few new arrivals

We have a 2003 Land Rover Discovery II SE7 in Dark Metallic Green with Beige Leather interior.  Its a clean capable truck with approx 125,000 miles.  This Land Rover has the dreaded “slipped sleeve” engine problem.  Just after the Holidays we will fit one of our new and improved Rover V8 “Bullet Proof” Engines.  Exterior upgrades will include a new off road & winch ready front bumper assembly.  If interested in a great 4×4 Land Rover, hit us up now and get involved in its build-up.

If you have always liked the classic-retro look of the Jaguar S-Type then we may have the perfect Jaguar for you!  Its a 2001 Jaguar with just about 105,000 miles.  The car is a dark Beige with light beige leather interior.  It has the bigger 3.0 liter economical V6 engine and an automatic transmission. 

We will post pictures of this LAND ROVER and JAGUAR to the website within the next couple of weeks.

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Dear Deers,

Although rutting season is almost at an end, please be careful of all the Deer running around on our roads here in Hunterdon County.  Cars and Deer do not mix and It can really Wreak Havok on your vehicle as well as you can get seriously injured!  Take a look at this poor JAGUAR…  A deer ran into the side of the car, flew over the hood, into the windshield and over the other side.  Our customer walked away with just a few bruises and a nearly totaled Jaguar.  All the front end panels have dents as well as the roof, a broken windshield and rearview mirror, and a broken exterior mirror.stype

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The True Cost of “Cheap” Service

The True Cost of Cheap Service:

A customer of ours “supposedly” got a good deal on a brake job, so he had this other shop do the work.  Well, for several reasons he wasnt happy with this shop.  He then brought the car to us after being annoyed with the constant non-stop brake squealling.  After looking thru the wheels at the brakes, we could see they were new.  They may have been new, but you could see they were inferior quality to the Genuine Jaguar parts we would have used.  They didnt even have any anti-squeal shims or hardware.  Further inspection showed the caliper brackets were completely rusted.  The brake pads were bound up in the rusted brackets and could not slide freely as they should – not to mention the lack, or non existant lubrication to help the pads slide freely to apply and release as brake pads do.  The customer wasnt happy when I told him we would not have performed an inferior job such as this.  After he told me what he paid for this “cheap” brake job, all I could say was “That is more than the Jaguar Dealer would have charged, and WAY more than we would have charged!”  There was nothing good about this bad deal!  He asked us to help elliminate the noise.  When we went to take the rear wheels off to gain access to the brakes my day got longer.  5 out of 10 lug nuts sheered right off in the wheel.  The shop had never cleaned the lugs and put them back on all rusty with an impact gun.  No cleaning, no never-seize, no proper torquing of the wheels.  It was lucky he never got a flat tire, because this could not be repaired roadside.  It took over 4 hours to cut and chissel off those broken lugnuts.  This was nearly an impossible job without damaging the cosmetics of the rim – I guess permanent scars to remind the owner of what happens when you leave your car in the wrong hands!  We dont use Cheap inferior parts, we always use premium/oe parts.  When performing any brake job we always clean, degrease, and bead-blast the caliper brackets to remove all rust, scale, and build-up.  After inspection for wear, we then properly lubricate the pad slide surface and the slide pins.  Now we put the brakes back together properly.  After bleeding the brakes, we take the vehicle for a long test drive and fully bed in the new brakes.  This is why our brake jobs NEVER come back for noise or any other complaints!  Any lessons learned?

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